Simulation of Water Waves by Higher Order Mild-Slope Equation

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Project title

Code/計畫編號

NSC97-2221-E006-261-MY3

Translated Name/計畫中文名

方向不規則波浪變形之研究---子計畫一：以高階緩坡方程式模擬方向不規則波之變形

Project Coordinator/計畫主持人

Tai-Wen Hsu

Co-Investigator(s)/共同執行人

許泰文
林炤圭

Website

https://www.grb.gov.tw/search/planDetail?id=1983981

Year

2010

Start date/計畫起

01-08-2010

Expected Completion/計畫迄

01-07-2011

Bugetid/研究經費

572千元

本計畫應用能譜觀念以高階緩坡方程式 (Mild-Slop Equation, MSE)所建立之數值模式為基礎，藉由能量通率之觀念在方程式中加入能量消散係數、非線性淺化係數、碎波效應及非線性波波交互作用求解不規則波浪通過結構物之變形問題，同時探討等頻率分割法和混合分割法在處理不規則波浪變形、週期和波譜形狀變化之適切性。本計畫計算結果將與SWAN 風浪數值模式之測試結果比較，驗證模式於模擬二維平面不規則波場上之可行性。模式計算結果同時與平面水池之試驗結果比較驗證。本計畫分三年進行，第一年著重於理論推導和數值模式之建立。藉由能量守恆之觀念，加入非線性淺化及非線性波波交互作用，探討等深地形佈置離岸堤，方向不規則波之波浪折、繞射及反射之變形。第二年延伸第一年之成果，擴展模式之功能，考慮波浪碎波與能量消散效應，據此模擬斜坡底床佈置離岸堤，方向不規則波之波浪變形。第三年則以前二年研究基礎，離岸堤改為透水堤，重新推導理論，建立數值模式計算方向不規則波通過斜坡海床上離岸堤之變形，數值模式計算結果將以不面水池之試驗結果加以校驗。 In this project, we apply the higher-order evolution equation of mild slope equation (EEMSE) with spectral method to simulate wave transformation of directional irregular waves. In the EEMSE, the energy coefficient in terms of energy flux will be added to deal with nonlinear shoaling, wave breaking and wave-wave interaction. In the first year, we derive the theory based on the conservation of wave energy. Nonlinear interactions are considered. Divide the wave spectrum is into several different components with different separating methods. Then we simulate wave transformation of irregular waves propagating a detached breakwater rest on a constant water depth. Meanwhile, the validity of the present model in two-dimensional problem is verified through comparisons with the results of the experiments conducted in a large-scale wave basin at National Taiwan Ocean University. In the second year, wave breaking and energy dissipation will be included in EEMSE. Waves propagating over a detached breakwater on a sloping bottom is simulated. Numerical results will be compared with experimental data obtained from laboratory observations of a wave basin. The third year aims to extend EEMSE to permeable structures. The numerical model will be valided through experiments.

Keyword(s)

高階緩坡方程式
非線性波波交互作用
wave energy
EEMSE

DSpace CRIS

Simulation of Water Waves by Higher Order Mild-Slope Equation

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