On the Directional Wave Specturm over a Submerged Breakwater on a Sloping Beach

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Project title

Code/計畫編號

NSC100-2221-E006-009-MY3

Translated Name/計畫中文名

方向不規則波通過斜坡地形上潛堤變形之研究-總計畫

Project Coordinator/計畫主持人

Tai-Wen Hsu

Funding Organization/主管機關

National Science and Technology Council

Website

https://www.grb.gov.tw/search/planDetail?id=2324010

Year

2011

Start date/計畫起

01-08-2011

Expected Completion/計畫迄

01-07-2012

Bugetid/研究經費

637千元

ResearchField/研究領域

土木水利工程
海洋科學

本整合型計畫整合數值模式和平面水工模型試驗，用以描述方向不規則波通過斜坡地形上潛堤之變形。本計畫包含數值模式之研發和平面水池方向不規則波之水工模型試驗。數值模式包括位相解析 (phase-resolved) 之布氏方程式 (Boussinesq equation, BE) 及淺水波方程式 (Shallow Water Equation, SWE) 及位相平均 (phase-averaged) 之 SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) 及 WWM (Wind Wave Model) 兩種波浪模式。位相解析模式重點在描述波浪之非線性效應和頻散效應，位相平均模式則結合延伸型緩坡方程式 (extended mild-slope equation) 描述波浪折、繞射及碎波和能量消散現象，特別是波向變化藉由EMSE 之修正係數予以掌握。水工模型試驗在大型平面水池進行，使用規則波及不規則波量測波浪通過斜坡底床上潛堤之波形變化，試驗結果用以檢驗模式之適用性。 This integrated project aims at the investigation of wave transformation of the directional wave spectrum. The research contains the development of numerical models and hydraulic model test. For the model test, experiments are about to conduct in a large wave basin at National Taiwan Ocean University (NTOU). Waves propagating over a submerged breakwater placed on a sloping beach are studied using different numerical models including Boussinesq Equation (BE) and Shall Water Equation (SWE); Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) and Wind Wave Model (WWM). The combined effect of wave refraction, diffraction, breaking and energy dissipation of the wave transformation can be accounted for by using these models, which will be developed in the project. Both phase resolving (BE and SWE) and phase-averaged models are used for describing the evolution of wave spectrum for random short-crested waves from deep water to shallow water regions. The phase-averaged wave action equation is formulated to include wave refraction, diffraction, breaking and energy dissipation which induce directional turning rate of the components. Higher-order terms from extended mild-slope equation (EMSE) are introduced in wave action equation. The numerical results are compared with BE and SWE and experiments.

Keyword(s)

平面水池
波浪折繞射
波浪碎波及能量消散
Wave basin
refraction/diffraction
breaking and energy dissipation

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On the Directional Wave Specturm over a Submerged Breakwater on a Sloping Beach

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