The effect of submerged porous structures on wind wave model

Abstract

The phase-averaged wave action equation (WAE) is extended to include the effect of submerged porous structures in this paper. The wave dissipation coefficient for submerged porous media is incorporated in the WAE of wind wave model. The coefficient of the turbulent flow resistance is obtained based on Lan et al. (2015), who reproduce the analysis of mild-slope equation proposed by Rojanakamthron et al. (1989) and emulate the Isobe (1987) method to add the effect of porous media in the WWM model. Reasonable comparisons with experiments and numerical results show the present model can be applied to propagating waves over porous beds and reefs.