http://scholars.ntou.edu.tw/handle/123456789/21186
DC 欄位 | 值 | 語言 |
---|---|---|
dc.contributor.author | Shih-Feng Su | en_US |
dc.contributor.author | Gangfeng Ma | en_US |
dc.date.accessioned | 2022-03-18T05:47:49Z | - |
dc.date.available | 2022-03-18T05:47:49Z | - |
dc.date.issued | 2018-04 | - |
dc.identifier.uri | http://scholars.ntou.edu.tw/handle/123456789/21186 | - |
dc.description.abstract | This study investigates infragravity motions on a two-dimensional fringing reef with a concave topography using a wave-resolving nonlinear Boussinesq wave model. The effect of bathymetric nonlinearity on spatial variations of infragravity waves is studied from shore-normal incident random waves. The model is first verified from cross-shore/alongshore significant wave height, wave setup and infragravity wave height measured in laboratory experiments. The modeled velocity is further examined to elucidate the infragravity-wave current field. Wavenumber-frequency velocity spectra show that cross-shore infragravity motions are controlled by the leaky waves, while alongshore infragravity motions exhibit edge waves characteristics. Additionally, high-mode edge waves prevail on the entire infragravity frequency band while low-mode edge waves are dominant at very low frequencies. Furthermore, the model results illustrate the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced nearshore currents, alongshore and cross-shore flows accompanying with circulation cells and rip currents. The infragavity-wave current field is nearly identical to the mean current field and the circulations develop at the same spatial scale as the reef flat. | en_US |
dc.language.iso | en | en_US |
dc.publisher | ELSEVIER | en_US |
dc.relation.ispartof | Ocean Engineering | en_US |
dc.subject | Infragravity waves | en_US |
dc.subject | Edge waves | en_US |
dc.subject | Circulation | en_US |
dc.subject | Fringing reef | en_US |
dc.title | Modeling two-dimensional infragravity motions on a fringing reef | en_US |
dc.type | journal article | en_US |
dc.identifier.doi | 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.01.111 | - |
dc.identifier.isi | WOS:000428824200022 | - |
dc.relation.journalvolume | 153 | en_US |
dc.relation.pages | 256-267 | en_US |
item.cerifentitytype | Publications | - |
item.grantfulltext | none | - |
item.openairetype | journal article | - |
item.openairecristype | http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 | - |
item.fulltext | no fulltext | - |
item.languageiso639-1 | en | - |
crisitem.author.dept | National Taiwan Ocean University,NTOU | - |
crisitem.author.dept | College of Engineering | - |
crisitem.author.dept | Bachelor Degree Program in Ocean Engineering and Technology | - |
crisitem.author.parentorg | National Taiwan Ocean University,NTOU | - |
crisitem.author.parentorg | College of Engineering | - |
顯示於: | 海洋工程科技學士學位學程(系) |
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