Moisture retention of glycerin solutions with various concentrations: a comparative study

Abstract

Various methods of evaluating a humectant's moisture retention have unique mechanisms. Hence, for designing advanced or efficient ingredients of cosmetic products, a clear understanding of differences among methods is required. The aim of this study was to analyze the moisture-retention capacity of glycerin, a common ingredient in cosmetic products. Specifically, this study applied gravimetric analysis, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to examine the evaporation of glycerin solutions of different concentrations. The results revealed that the moisture-retention capacity of glycerin increased with the glycerin concentration from 0 to 60 wt%, and glycerin at concentration of 60-70 wt% did not exhibit weight change during the evaporation process. When the glycerin concentration exceeded 70 wt%, moisture sorption occurred in the glycerin solution. Furthermore, the results revealed a deviation between the evaporation rates measured using gravimetric analysis and those measured using TEWL analysis. However, normalizing the results of these analyses yielded the relative evaporation rates to water, which were consistent between these two analyses. DSC thermograms further confirmed the consistent results and identified two hydrated water microstructures (nonfreezable water and free water) in the glycerin solutions, which explained why the measured evaporation rate decreased with the glycerin concentration. These findings can be applied to prove the moisture-retention capacity of a humectant in cosmetic products by different measuring methods.