Extended wind wave model (WWM) incorporating the effect of submerged porous media with high permeability

Abstract

In this study, the phase-averaged wave action equation (WAE) is extended to incorporate the effect of submerged porous media with high permeability. The wave dissipation coefficient for submerged porous media is incorporated into the WAE of the wind wave model. The coefficient of turbulent flow resistance is obtained from the work by taking the imaginary part of a mathematical model of wave transformation over a submerged porous medium under the mild-slope assumption. A method to estimate the characteristic parameter of turbulent frictional resistance in porous media is proposed in this study. Comparisons with experiments and other numerical results showed that the proposed model could be applied to waves propagating over porous beds and reefs. Practical simulations were used to investigate wave damping due to porous seabeds in nearshore areas.