Using Swan to Simulate Directional Random Waves Passing through a Submerged Dike Seated on Slopping Bottom

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Project title

Code/計畫編號

NSC100-2221-E019-005-MY3

Translated Name/計畫中文名

方向不規則波通過斜坡地形上潛堤變形之研究-子計畫三：利用SWAN模擬方向不規則波通過斜坡地形上潛堤之研究

Project Coordinator/計畫主持人

Jaw-Guei Lin

Funding Organization/主管機關

National Science and Technology Council

Department/Unit

Department of Harbor and River Engineering

Website

https://www.grb.gov.tw/search/planDetail?id=2852997

Year

2013

Start date/計畫起

01-08-2013

Expected Completion/計畫迄

31-07-2014

Co-Investigator(s)

Tai-Wen Hsu

Bugetid/研究經費

519千元

ResearchField/研究領域

土木水利工程

"本計畫為一三年期整合型計畫「方向不規則波通過斜坡地形上潛堤變形之研究」之一部分，主要目的是利用近岸風浪模式 SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) 模擬方向不規則波通過斜坡上潛堤之變形。SWAN 模式係以能量守恆之概念來描述海洋中風浪之生成、減衰、傳播和消散過程，並能計算波譜在近岸地區受地形變化影響之淺化及折繞射問題。本子計畫將加入折、繞射效應，使用以有限差分技巧計算的結構性巢狀網格(nested grid)或以有限元素技巧計算的非結構性網格等模式進行方向不規則波浪通過離岸潛堤之數值計算。第一年先將高階MSE 中繞射效應係數加入SWAN 模式，並在源項中增加ds S 項之碎波和能量消散效應。本子計畫第二年將擴展緩坡方程式中各種能量消散模式，考慮陡變地形，即海底坡度與由高階項，使 SWAN 之折繞射模式能適用於任意地形，同時在考慮碎波效應下，進行單方向不規則波通過斜坡上潛堤變形的數值模擬與計算。模式計算結果將配合子計畫四的水工模型試驗的佈置進行波浪推算模擬，並與試驗結果相比較。此外，也和傳統MSE 數值模擬結果相比較，期望能提高數值計算的精度。在第三年中，本子計畫將進一步考慮方向不規則波碎波效應與能量消散之影響，其計算結果也將與 MSE 之結果比較，並評估 SWAN 折繞射模式的合理性。" "This project is part of the integrated research project entitled with “A study on directional random wave deformations over a submerged dike on sloping bottom” and using the SWAN model (Simulating Waves Nearshore) to simulate the phenomena. Based on the spectral action balance equation, the effects of spatial propagation, refraction, shoaling, generation, dissipation, and nonlinear wave-wave interactions can be taken into account for the evolution of wave generation. This project intends to introduce the higher order wave refraction/diffraction terms, and to simulate irregular waves over a submerged dike on sloping bottom in both structure grid and unstructured grid models. In the first year work, the higher order diffraction coefficient of mild-slope equation(MSE) and the wave dissipation due to wave breaking. Regular wave deformations will be simulated. In the second year, the dissipation terms in extended mild slope equation will be introduced into the model for steep sloping bottom cases, long crested irregular waves will be simulated. In the final year, the influences of high order dissipation terms on the deformations of short crested random waves will be discussed. All the results will also be compared with the results from traditional MSE, and the hydraulic experiments."

Keyword(s)

近岸波浪推算
陡變地形
波浪繞射
SWAN 模式
Nearshore Wave Prediction
Steep Bottom Slope
Wave Diffraction
SWAN Wave Model

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Using Swan to Simulate Directional Random Waves Passing through a Submerged Dike Seated on Slopping Bottom

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