波浪碎波現象之探討對於近岸流、海岸過程及海域污染擴散等機制之瞭解甚為重 要。波浪碎波在能量消散、海氣交互作用以及海岸工程之設計與規劃扮演重要角色。本 計畫擬以水工模型試驗研究不規則波浪之碎波特性，提供風浪數值模式中波浪碎波與能 量消散兩個參數之決定公式，提高數值模擬之精確度。試驗將於成功大學大尺度之斷面 水槽進行，造波條件為不規則波，量測波浪碎波後之波高變化與能量減衰。試驗結果有 助於瞭解波譜從深海至淺海之變形及其碎波機制。 Wave dissipation function is the least understood source term in spectral models used for the wave forecasting. Theoretical knowledge of the wave dissipation process is poor, and experimental results are sketchy and inconsistent. It is generally accepted that major part of the dissipation is due to wave breaking. There have been significant recent advances in understanding of physics of such breaking for two-dimensional monochromatic waves, which need to be further elaborated into the full-spectrum environment to be applicable to real field waves. This will be done within the project by means of laboratory experiments at the National Cheng Kung University, Taiwan. Results will be parameterized in a form suitable for using in wave models and implemented in WWM model at the National Cheng Kung University in Taiwan and in WAVETIME model at Swinburne University of Technology in Australia.
wind wave model