Laboratory Experiments on the Energy Dissipation Due to Irregular Waves Breaking

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Project title

Code/計畫編號

NSC97-2218-E127-001

Translated Name/計畫中文名

不規則波波浪碎波能量消散之試驗研究

Project Coordinator/計畫主持人

Tai-Wen Hsu

Co-Investigator(s)/共同執行人

歐善惠
許泰文

Website

https://www.grb.gov.tw/search/planDetail?id=1698352

Year

2008

Start date/計畫起

01-08-2008

Expected Completion/計畫迄

01-07-2009

Bugetid/研究經費

1403千元

波浪碎波現象之探討對於近岸流、海岸過程及海域污染擴散等機制之瞭解甚為重要。波浪碎波在能量消散、海氣交互作用以及海岸工程之設計與規劃扮演重要角色。本計畫擬以水工模型試驗研究不規則波浪之碎波特性，提供風浪數值模式中波浪碎波與能量消散兩個參數之決定公式，提高數值模擬之精確度。試驗將於成功大學大尺度之斷面水槽進行，造波條件為不規則波，量測波浪碎波後之波高變化與能量減衰。試驗結果有助於瞭解波譜從深海至淺海之變形及其碎波機制。 Wave dissipation function is the least understood source term in spectral models used for the wave forecasting. Theoretical knowledge of the wave dissipation process is poor, and experimental results are sketchy and inconsistent. It is generally accepted that major part of the dissipation is due to wave breaking. There have been significant recent advances in understanding of physics of such breaking for two-dimensional monochromatic waves, which need to be further elaborated into the full-spectrum environment to be applicable to real field waves. This will be done within the project by means of laboratory experiments at the National Cheng Kung University, Taiwan. Results will be parameterized in a form suitable for using in wave models and implemented in WWM model at the National Cheng Kung University in Taiwan and in WAVETIME model at Swinburne University of Technology in Australia.

Keyword(s)

非線性波
碎波
能量消散
大型斷面水槽
風浪模式
source term
wave breaking
energy dissipation
turbulence
wind wave model

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Laboratory Experiments on the Energy Dissipation Due to Irregular Waves Breaking

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