Using finite-element method to simulate wave transformations in surf zone

Abstract

In this study, a finite element method proposed by Hsu et al. in 2003 is extended to develop a numerical model for the simulation of wave transformation in the surf zone. The governing equation is the elliptic mild-slope equation including the energy dissipation of wave breaking. At the open boundaries with varying depth, the reflected waves caused by shoaling are adopted to the radiation boundary conditions. The rationality of the present numerical model is examined through the cases of offshore parallel breakwater problems. The results of calculation are in good agreement with experimental results.